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Thread: Ring And Valve Job How Much Should That Cost?

  1. #1

    Default Ring And Valve Job How Much Should That Cost?

    Well Saturday i went to check my oil and it was below the 1st notch on the dipstick and i was like what the hell y is it low i just changed the oil about 1300 miles ago and so i took it to a mechanic and they said i need a ring and valve job and that the would charge me 1900 dollas to do it does that sound right, ok this is what it says on the paper they print off

    1. Compression Test 1)160 2)160 3)165 4)165
    perform engine compression test. Verify engine has proper compression accordding to the service manual. COMPRESSION IS LOW INDICATING WORN OUT PISTION RINGS.
    recommend ring and vavle job to correct low compression and oil consumption. 1900 dollas providing that the cylinder walls are within factory specs.

    so man im kinda fuct so if i fix those would that fix the problem? im just pissed right now cause my car is a 95 gsr with only 68000 miles on it and shits already goin down so im freakin thanx guys

  2. #2

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    minimum on a gsr compression is 140. and maximum is 270 so you're way down. What did you do to your car?

    I don't understand how they figure it's the piston rings from just a compression test. Have you ever done a compression or leakdown test before?

    I have no clue how much a valve job and piston ring replacement would cost, sorry

  3. #3

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    i have down nothing to my car but just drive it to work and back which is like 5 minutes away and you know sometime speeding what teenagers do best but i changed the oil regularly evry 2000 miles and i wasent even that hard on it. But what should i do? and no i have never got a compression or leakdown test on it b4

  4. #4

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    What conditions was the compression test performed? The motor must be at normal operating temps and you must have the throttle at WOT for the #'s to read correctly.

    A leakdown test is basically sourcing out the cause of poor compression. I would reccomend going to a honda or acura dealership to do this, not a normal mechanic.

    Its hard to believe that a GSR with under 70k miles can have bad rings. I've seen B18C's last 150k before they drop below 200 on compression.

    As for labor. To replace the rings, you must pull the motor (or at least that is the easiest way). Pull the pistons, press in the new rings, and if the cylinder walls are still ok, you can reuse the pistons, but if you have worn cylinder walls you will need oversized pistons and then have your block machined to accept the new oversized pistons. Then reinstall and assembly.

    I would probably charge 1500 for the entire job minus parts. Machining is another 350 ontop of that.
    -- '01 YZF R6 -- hit/wrecked 12/20/04
    -- '01 YZF R1 -- Scary
    -- '97 ITR #110 --

  5. #5

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    god dammit! i have the same problem i didnt wanna lookinto it bc i was afriad it might be this! i got an oil change and 1500 miles later NO oil iam loosing like a quart a week.......should i get a compression test? whats that run?

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by fleasme428
    god dammit! i have the same problem i didnt wanna lookinto it bc i was afriad it might be this! i got an oil change and 1500 miles later NO oil iam loosing like a quart a week.......should i get a compression test? whats that run?
    Go buy a compression gauge and do it yourself...only takes 15 minutes.
    -- '01 YZF R6 -- hit/wrecked 12/20/04
    -- '01 YZF R1 -- Scary
    -- '97 ITR #110 --

  7. #7

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    ya i just learned that u can do it your self...... iam such a fucking riced out bitch!

  8. #8

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    yea, def go get that checked out by a dif mechanic, my ls compression reads 210 205 205 210.

  9. #9

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    try to adjust the valves first. most shops, some times even dealers, will quote/charge you the highest possible amount, even if such work isnt required. thats how they make money. this is true especially if you are a woman or seem naive. if you do have to rebuild i would recommend going with forged internals, it wont be much more than oem. if you have friends who are decent mechanics you can save a lot by removing/installing the block yourself. I've been quoted $300-500 to assemble a block minus parts. that includes a .020"/.5mm bore and hone.
    if your engine had been burning oil for some time and you never checked the level, the oil starvation could have caused the worn rings. thats why you check it periodically. if you ever saw your oil warning light blink while driving you can count on your engine being toast. that links comes on when there is about 5psi...normal pressure is closer to 80psi
    1.8T

  10. #10

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    oil warning light? you mean the CEL? Unless there's an oil light and I've never noticed

    compression testers are sold at pepboys and autozone costs about $30 bucks. You'd need an extra hand to do a compression test:
    http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/c...t/comptest.php

    Do it yourself leakdown test:
    http://www.xs11.com/tips/misc/misc3.shtml

    Buying a leakdown test costs anywhere from $40-$100

    B18b:
    Nominal: 199
    Minimal: 140
    Maximum variance: 28

    B18c1:
    Nominal 270
    Minimal: 140
    Maximum variance: 28

    I have no clue why stockhonda has higher than 199

  11. #11
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    Ft. Bragg, NC / Greensboro, NC / Long Island, NY)
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tianaman
    oil warning light? you mean the CEL? Unless there's an oil light and I've never noticed

    compression testers are sold at pepboys and autozone costs about $30 bucks. You'd need an extra hand to do a compression test:
    http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/c...t/comptest.php

    Do it yourself leakdown test:
    http://www.xs11.com/tips/misc/misc3.shtml

    Buying a leakdown test costs anywhere from $40-$100

    B18b:
    Nominal: 199
    Minimal: 140
    Maximum variance: 28

    B18c1:
    Nominal 270
    Minimal: 140
    Maximum variance: 28

    I have no clue why stockhonda has higher than 199
    lolol cuz he's not stock.

    i ahve the same problem. oil way below first notch, and lately i've notice the oil light stays lit for longer when i first start the car up cold. used to only be like 1 second, now it's sometimes 3-4 seconds. but i'm due for an oil change. gonna do it tomorrow.
    2003 Mazda Protegé ES-T
    HiBoost Kit - T3/TO4E, 13psi and 626 Intake Mani
    258WHP, 243TQ @ 12 psi
    Cardomain Page


  12. #12

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by fleasme428
    i dont have an oil light
    lolol why not?
    2003 Mazda Protegé ES-T
    HiBoost Kit - T3/TO4E, 13psi and 626 Intake Mani
    258WHP, 243TQ @ 12 psi
    Cardomain Page


  14. #14

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    hahaha neither do you


    it's a check engine light god dammit

  15. #15

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    lolol cuz he's not stock.
    I have a stock motor, and 8 psi has been rammed through it for 10k miles, and my motor still has better compression than stock. Carbon buildup? who knows

  16. #16

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    you see that little oil tin looking thing right over the 2700rpm mark? thats your low oil pressure warning light, it lights up red when pressure is low.


    the CEL looks like an engine and lights up in orange

    tianaman, i've never seen/heard of a b18c1 compress 270psi.
    1.8T

  17. #17

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    it's off my helms manual


    hhhmmm, looks like i mixed up cel with oil with maintenance required lights

  18. #18
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    i guess not many people look at their gauges when they first start their car liek you should. it's kinda hard to miss the oil light
    2003 Mazda Protegé ES-T
    HiBoost Kit - T3/TO4E, 13psi and 626 Intake Mani
    258WHP, 243TQ @ 12 psi
    Cardomain Page


  19. #19

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    I dunno man, i got that same shit raskall got on his gauge cluster. ............................


















































    But seriously, I dont really notice, the only 2 lights that caught my attention was the abs and maintenance required

  20. #20

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    well im getting CTR piston,Bearings, Rods and CTR intake camshaft and while its out and shit hes gunna put water pump timimg belt all for 1100 so not to bad

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