Results 1 to 24 of 24

Thread: Cracked Engine Block

  1. #1

    Default Cracked Engine Block

    Shinghi Detlefsen 1995 Honda Accord Ex VTEC

    Hi All,

    So this is my first car and so far shes been great except for one recurring problem, it seems that there is a crack in the front of the engine block that leaks coolant. Every time i stop i can basically smell it burning and when i pop the hood i can see a nice trickle coming down from behind the exhaust manifold. I have tried Blue Devil sealant but that didn't seem to work and am for now just dealing with it. Any ideas for good products or a solution for it? One of my mechanics suggested it might be a freeze plug and another said it was a crack? What do you all think?


    Cheers

  2. #2

    Default

    http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...R+HEAD+%282%29

    Are you sure it's not coming from the water return neck?
    I would think a mechanic would know the difference, just want to check all the obvious first.

    http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...LOCK+-+OIL+PAN

    There a plug in the front of the block by the bellhousing and slave cylinder.

    A picture may help us ?
    Spa Yellow Pearl 92 Si D16z6
    9.85 and 145 mph 1.54 60 ft.

  3. #3

    Default

    I've heard of a crack in the front of the block causing oil leakage and coolant leakage may be possible.

    Another possibility is leaking head gasket allowing coolant to escape out the seam between cylinder head and block.

    First remove the intake manifold and inspect for a crack w/ dye penetrant or mag particle inspection. It may be visible. Take some photos and post.

    I've heard of block cracks being repaired by welding and use of J&B epoxy, though in proximity to the intake manifold seems unlikely for epoxy.

    good luck
    1994 Accord EX
    1997 Acura 2.5 TL
    2007 Accord SE
    2001 Toyota Celica
    1999 Subaru Forester

    See you down the ROW!

  4. #4

    Default Here are some pictures sorry it took me a little while

    I took off the heat shield covering the exhaust manifold so you can see where the leak is coming from. Do you think I should spray or scrape off all the burned anti-freeze?

    Also any recommendations for sealant products such as bars leak or others?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #5

    Default

    Looks like JB weld is one option. Clean the area really well and follow the directions on the box.

    Good Luck

    Or if you can remove the manifold and have it welded that would work to.
    Spa Yellow Pearl 92 Si D16z6
    9.85 and 145 mph 1.54 60 ft.

  6. #6

    Default

    J&B may work and certainly worth a try. I would remove the intake manifold as it separates from exhaust quite easiily. Then you'll a good access to clean and repair.

    If you decide you want a welded repair, I would suggest doing some "due diligence" to find someone w/ experience in welding on aluminum block. This is not a trivial job to repair a crack and get it to last.

    Was there an extreme overheating event that may have led to this problem?

    good luck
    1994 Accord EX
    1997 Acura 2.5 TL
    2007 Accord SE
    2001 Toyota Celica
    1999 Subaru Forester

    See you down the ROW!

  7. #7

    Default

    Take off the exhaust manifold, it's only a couple of bolts, clean the area really well, and as said before follow the instructions if you go the JB route. I personally would go with having someone TIG that up but like texas said, find someone that is good with aluminum. A poor weld wouldn't be any better than JB puttying it.

    I too am curious if you overheated your engine and that's why it cracked or how this happened. Usually blocks don't just crack on their own without some sort of "trauma". If it's been overheated you may have some headgasket or warpage issues before too long.
    Some scars are meant to be worn with pride

  8. #8

    Default

    Had a similar problem in a 94 LX. The dealership had a service bulletin on it. The issue was engine twisting from torque caused a crack behind the exhaust from a bracket used to hold the exhaust pipe to the front of the engine. This caused an oil leak through the front wall of the block because of the rigidity of the exhaust pipe resisting the natural twisting of the engine on its mounts. The dealer's fix was to remove the exhaust bracket. Then they would either replace the block under warranty or repair it with JB Weld. They repaired mine.... It never completely stopped leaking although it did slow considerably. This was in the first year we had it (bought it new) and we put 200,000 on it over 14 years before upgrading to a 2007 EX. I don't know if this is your issue or how similar the EX and LX motors were from 94 to 95.... might be the answer though. Good Luck.
    Last edited by thebeebe5; 10-01-2010 at 09:56 PM.

  9. #9

    Default Hey yall

    So as to the cause of the leak, I don't really know. I bought the car with over 200,000 miles on it and took it in to pepboys for them to inspection and they found the leak in the block and told me i needed to replace my engine..... of course i didn't listen to them. So my first attempt of trying to fix the crack was to use a product called "Blue Devil" sealant and that ended up causing a good amount of damage to my car because i thought i was supposed to let it sit but i was really supposed to let it idle for at least an hour... whoops! Thus when I drove it, the sealant had hardened somewhere and blocked it from entering the engine.... yeah and thus it overheated and blew out my water pump... so that added another $500 bucks (I also changed the timing belt in the process). Yeah so it still leaks about 4 ounces a week, which isn't too bad, but its just the peace of mind that I am looking for.. haha. This week I am going to try J&B weld and see how that goes. I will be sure to let all of you know. Thanks for all the help.

    Oh also i just finished putting in a K&N air filter, does anyone know of the benefits i should be looking forwards to because of it?

    And also I might try Pulsestar spark plugs but feel a little iffy on that... what do you guys think?


    Cheers

    Shinghi

  10. #10

    Default

    I've never used "Pulsestar" plugs, but if these are multi-tip plugs, then steer clear of them. I've not seen any positive feedback on their use.

    I've found the Autolite platinum tip plugs to be very good buys (look for coupons) and work just fine.

    good luck
    1994 Accord EX
    1997 Acura 2.5 TL
    2007 Accord SE
    2001 Toyota Celica
    1999 Subaru Forester

    See you down the ROW!

  11. #11

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Shinghi View Post
    So as to the cause of the leak, I don't really know. I bought the car with over 200,000 miles on it and took it in to pepboys for them to inspection and they found the leak in the block and told me i needed to replace my engine..... of course i didn't listen to them. So my first attempt of trying to fix the crack was to use a product called "Blue Devil" sealant and that ended up causing a good amount of damage to my car because i thought i was supposed to let it sit but i was really supposed to let it idle for at least an hour... whoops! Thus when I drove it, the sealant had hardened somewhere and blocked it from entering the engine.... yeah and thus it overheated and blew out my water pump... so that added another $500 bucks (I also changed the timing belt in the process). Yeah so it still leaks about 4 ounces a week, which isn't too bad, but its just the peace of mind that I am looking for.. haha. This week I am going to try J&B weld and see how that goes. I will be sure to let all of you know. Thanks for all the help.

    Oh also i just finished putting in a K&N air filter, does anyone know of the benefits i should be looking forwards to because of it?

    And also I might try Pulsestar spark plugs but feel a little iffy on that... what do you guys think?


    Cheers

    Shinghi
    Well, I'm not sure your main concern should be a K&N air filter right now.... Find someone (assuming you already have not) that can make sure your engine is going to be ok with additional mods/money it sounds as if you are gearing up for.... Would be awful to throw good money after bad.

    But once that's settled the K&N is a great addition! Put them in all my cars after the initial factory filter is finished (no sense throwing away a good filter!!).

  12. #12

    Default

    Hey Guys

    So I decided the easiest route (I know that it isn't always the best) but it was what would work best for me and I J&B cold welded it. It out there in the parking lot drying right now. I am thinking to put another layer on top of it in a couple of hours but still pondering if it is worth it... Do you guys think a second coat would be worth it. I want to get it up a little bit higher so..

    Also the K&N filter seems to be a nice fit for my car, its running a bit smoother and I can feel an improvement in power. So I really think it was worth it. ($50 for the filter + Oil and Cleaning Spray + Shipping from Advance Auto Parts).

    Thank you all for your help!

    Cheers

  13. #13

    Default

    How long does the warranty cover the engine? I bought the car with over 200,000 miles on it so...

    Thanks

  14. #14

    Default

    I don't think an external layer will do any good. Seal must occur in the crack. Differntial expansion rates of epoxy and aluminum make this an iffy proposition, but you never know. You can always clean up the crack and weld it.

    good luck
    1994 Accord EX
    1997 Acura 2.5 TL
    2007 Accord SE
    2001 Toyota Celica
    1999 Subaru Forester

    See you down the ROW!

  15. #15

    Default

    So my first try didn't work out completely.. evidently i didn't get the whole crack... (its basically impossible to see, yeah it is impossible..I am basically just making an educated guess as to where it is. Some posted earlier that the exhaust bracket was creating extra tension which made a crack. Could this possibly the reason behind my crack? And if so could i take the bracket off?

    Cheers

    Shinghi

  16. #16

    Default

    I would repair the block by welding. A good welder can make a repair that will hold.

    Removing the bracket might have unexpected consequences; broken exhaust manifold stud or cracked exhaust manifold. tough call.

    good luck
    1994 Accord EX
    1997 Acura 2.5 TL
    2007 Accord SE
    2001 Toyota Celica
    1999 Subaru Forester

    See you down the ROW!

  17. #17

    Default

    Hey Guys,

    So i am still having problems with that darn leak... I tried JB weld and evidently still couldn't completely cover the crack... and also it seems like it might have expanded.... uh oh! Yeah so right now i am sort of lost for ideas. I am thinking that I might need to remove the exhaust bracket ( I talked to "thebeebe5") and his one was removed for 15 years and seems to be doing fine. So i am headed in that direction. Also I think i will try another coat of JB weld in areas where I can see the crack. It just makes it so hard because the crack is like less the width of a hair... so i will attempt once more on it. Is it possible that putting on the JB weld could expand the crack? Anyways I love this car and want her to purr perfectly, but i guess its the challenge of getting her there that makes it fun.

    Thanks to everyone again

    Shinghi

  18. #18

    Default

    I think you are wasting your time/effort trying to seal a hairline crack w/ J&B epoxy.

    I would suggest going to a good machine shop w/ aluminum welding capability and some experience w/ this type of repair.

    Some google research will show that this repair is not easy.

    There is a mechanical procedure called metal stiching that is used on cast iron, but I oculd not find any indications of use on aluminum. Cost was reportedly more than replacing the block.

    If you can live w/ the crack, that is the cheapest solution. It may not get any worse.

    good luck
    1994 Accord EX
    1997 Acura 2.5 TL
    2007 Accord SE
    2001 Toyota Celica
    1999 Subaru Forester

    See you down the ROW!

  19. #19

  20. #20

    Default

    Honestly, for the amount of effort that you've already put in, and for the amount of money it's going to eventually cost you to MAYBE fix this, you could easily just install another engine.

    I can appreciate someone who wants to fix what they have rather than give up and replace it... but sometimes giving up is the best option!



    That sealant stuff may have clogged your heater core. If your heat stops working, that's most likely what happened.

    www.cb7tuner.com - 1990-1993 Honda Accord forum
    www.cd5tuner.com - 1994-1997 Honda Accord forum

  21. #21

    Default

    One more thing you could try, sodium silicate, some people call it "water glass". Make sure there is no antifreeze in the coolant. With the water warm pour up to a quart into the radiator and drive it till the water gets up to normal range then park it and let it sit overnight. If you are lucky that will hold it. Ive seen it work on several cars including my stepdaughter's blazer. We sold it to the first sucker that came along and five years later he is still driving it and no problems! I saw a car go over 100K miles after having a blown head gasket fixed with it.

    Other than that I would say get another engine! I was a certified boilermaker certified in every aluminum class they had a test for and I wouldn't even attempt to weld that block. You have to have every bit of grease, oil and dirt including antifreeze, JB weld and even water scale cleaned out of it and then you would need to have the engine out of the car so the welder can get to the crack so he can see to weld it. Aluminum warps so crazy when you weld it you could easily end up with more cracks after its welded. Then it could very easily crack again the first time it gets hot.

    Why did you buy a car with a cracked block anyway? didn't you believe the people at PepBoys? If you knew more than them why did you pay them to check it out? You must have plenty of money so why didn't you just buy a new car?

  22. #22

    Default

    Shinghi,

    In researching this problem on the internet I have also seen information that suggests there was an issue with the castings Honda was using for the blocks. They were apparently weak and prone to cracking. This might have happened with or without the manifold bracket in place, but undoubtedly that stressed the front of the block in my car's case as evidenced by the decrease in leakage after simply removing that bracket. This might account for so many blocks having issues. The service manager that handled my problem said they serviced hundreds of cars in the 94 year model range and poor quality blocks could have been the issue.

  23. #23

    Default

    Hey Everyone,

    Thanks a lot for all the advice! Right now i think i am just going to live with it, but i did remove the exhaust bracket, and found that it was cracked!!! So there was definitely a lot of torque and heat that had to be on it. So hopefully that will help. I will attach pictures if you would like to see.

    Also recently took my car down to la, with four people in it and it overheated as i got over the grapevine (a big mountain). I had the ac on, but just as we started going down hill. When i opened the hood i saw some coolant below the left side of the radiator, and the overflow reservoir was completely full. What do you think this could be from. Should i flush my coolant system from all that crap i put into it?

    And sorry for all these questions, but are 95's supposed to hard shift, just a little?


    Thanks everyone so much.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  24. #24

    Default

    Overflowing coolant reservoir coudl be failed radiator cap. It could also be a failing cylinder head gasket allowing exhaust gases into coolant system and forcing coolant into reservoir.

    Suggest checking engine coolant for exhaust gas contamination w/ a chemical test. I've never used this but it is supposed to be a good test. You might also look for gas bubbles into the reservoir and a "gasoline" smell. Both are indications of exhaust gas in the coolant.

    good luck
    1994 Accord EX
    1997 Acura 2.5 TL
    2007 Accord SE
    2001 Toyota Celica
    1999 Subaru Forester

    See you down the ROW!

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •