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Thread: '92 High speed miss, low speed stall

  1. #1

    Default '92 High speed miss, low speed stall

    Hi,

    The problem:

    1. Drive on interstate four hours, no problem
    2. Then, notice occasional high speed miss
    3. At exit, experience low speed stall with nearly instant re-start on its own
    4. Return the four hours with occasional HS miss and LS stall

    Once during #4, the CEL came on and eventually went off.

    Now, I short the trouble code connector and get upon moving the key to #2 position:

    one short blink
    one moderate-length pause
    then 100 short blinks...I gave up after 100.

    The car starts and runs fine; the problem only happens after driving the car a long way, and even then it self-starts when it stalls and will start right up.

    Suggestions? Thanks,

    Roy

    '92 AT 2-door LX 130k; recent timing belt change

    Also note: I had a similar, but worse problem, a week before I discovered this problem. The earlier problem was "solved" with a new rotor and rotor shield (which was busted into 2 parts when I bought the car)

  2. #2

    Default

    SOUNDS LIKE TIMING BELT ITS LOSE AM NOT SURE BUT SOUNDS LIKE IF THIS ITS CORRECT what you describe,

    Thatch what i thing wait for more replay..from members

  3. #3

    Default

    I'm thinking the ignitor is getting ready to go.

    If this begins to happen more and more but runs fine after the car has cooled off a bit, it's the ignitor.

    If you have never replaced the dizzy, you may want to start looking around for a rebuilt dizzy from an auto parts store.
    Spa Yellow Pearl 92 Si D16z6
    9.85 and 145 mph 1.54 60 ft.

  4. #4

    Default

    Hi guys,

    Thanks.

    I don't think it is the t-belt as it sounds, and runs great, when cool. Never any belt or valve noise. But, if others think this is a possibility, I can re-tension the belt, of course.

    I wonder about the ignitor, too. But, here is my deal: (1) all ignitor trouble-shooting guides assume the car will not start, (2) I, like everyone, hates throwing parts at a problem, and (3) driving it until the miss and stalls get more frequent...oh man, I don't like stalls. I have fixed plenty of cars on the side of the road, and I try to avoid plans which invlove "drive until it dies."

    Anyway, I know intermittent problems are the worse.

    Any others support the ignitor?

    Thanks again,

    Roy

  5. #5

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    hey today i ask Honda about the told me too check> idle speed control < or another name> ISC <i don't no even what it its sorry, then their told me too check>>> Fuel Pump <<<<<
    I hope this helps check >> Fuel Pump <<<
    hi told me if it was ISC you will get a check engine light will stay on will not turn off...
    and with the Fuel Pump your check engine light will go on and turn off after the fuel its on correct pressure..

    I Hope This Helps...

  6. #6

    Default

    Thanks. In all this missing and stalling the CEL only came on once and then only for a couple minutes. There are no stored codes.

    BTW, when it stalls, the tach slams down to zero. It generally self-starts before I come to a complete stop. The longest I had to wait to re-start was <1 minute.

    Someone told me that 95&#37; of fuel pump relay problems are with starting...not loss of power while driving. Anyone else think that?

    Roy

  7. #7

    Default

    A weak coil could cause high speed missing, stalls (when coil opens completely), and restart easily but usually not right away as your's does. A coil is relatively inexpensive and it may be worth trying "in the blind".

    Ignitor can have similar symptoms as coil.

    An intermittent keyswitch could cause your symptoms also, but ignitor.

    That's the difficulty w/ an intermittent problem. It's only possible to diagnose when the problem is present, not when it's absent.

    good luck
    1994 Accord EX
    1997 Acura 2.5 TL
    2007 Accord SE
    2001 Toyota Celica
    1999 Subaru Forester

    See you down the ROW!

  8. #8

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    Here's my story.

    Car would run fine until it got hot. let it cool 5-10 mins it was fine. did that for about 3 weeks. Took it to my trusted mechanic, known him for 20 years. He has to let the idle for 45min's before it would stall. Yep, it's the igniton. Also during the months prior, the tack would sometimes jump around all on it own and the dizzy would make a screaming noise sometimes.

    A few weks after the ignitor was replaced the coil went and took the ignitor with it. He fixed that, a few weeks later the dizzy began making the noise more often. We put a rebuilt dizzy in it, but kept the new coil and ignitor for future use if needed. Mechanic said, if we wouild have just put the dizzy in month's ago, we could have saved you some down time.

    So I always recommend at the first time of ignition problems, just replace the dizzy, in these old cars.

    There's more expense to the story that involves having the car towed and cracked body kit parts.


    Go buy a rebuilt dizzy.
    Spa Yellow Pearl 92 Si D16z6
    9.85 and 145 mph 1.54 60 ft.

  9. #9

    Default

    Hi.

    Smithby, it sounds like you'd suggest a distributor and coil. Any brand recommendations?

    Texas, I have tried to wiggle, wiggle, wiggle the key to get a reaction. No luck, there.

    I hate to think I'll eventually slap in a distributor and coil without a firm diagnosis. But, "found on road dead" is just something I hate to be involved with.

    Roy
    1992 Accord LX 2-door AT

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