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Thread: Which turbo Kit From where?

  1. #26

    Default Which turbo Kit From where

    Id suggest keeping the turbo runners small and even the small turbo. faster more useful spool.

    for a street turbo its always best to err to the small side unless your going nuts

    Id also wrap the manifold especially where the turbo charge pipe passes thru it...thats not doing any favors.

  2. #27

    Default Which turbo Kit From where

    The pictures arent coming up for some reason for me, but if it is the SS log manifold which I assume it is then the answer is NO

    I think uncle arther started off with one of those kits perhaps, maybe he can give you some feedback.

    As for the stainless manifold, well I know of one which found its way onto a DIY conversion of a friends mx5 and it ended up in the bin after the next owner of the car had it crack several times on many occasions with the manifold being less than a year old with few km travelled.

    Hope this helps,

  3. #28

    Default Which turbo Kit From where

    a 450 pump and deka 80s will probably be maxed right about your goal on pump 92 . BUT if you think you will want more build the fuel system for more now 2 450s and 210 injectors will support your goal on e85 and have room for more. I myself am looking at a little john motorsportsLJMS stage 2 turbo cam. I am only giving advice on the research ive done. I am by no means any kind of expert. hope this helpsEdited June 7, 2018 by wantaSSS

  4. #29

    Default Which turbo Kit From where

    the first question that springs to mind is whether it would be compatible with right hand drive cars. the turbo , pipes etc are crammed in there pretty tight and dont seem to leave much room on the exhaust side of the engine bay. id be willing to bet that its LHD only , which is a shame.

    looks like a well made kit tho.

  5. #30

    Default Which turbo Kit From where

    Have you compared your set up to others with stock ish power? You could always get driver training, another set of wheels for sticker tyres, better suspension, remove weight etc to get your times down. Throwing money at a turbo wont make you a faster driver.

  6. #31

    Default Which turbo Kit From where

    garrett very very rarely makes full turbo kits for cars, most often an aftermarket company makes the manifolds and pipes and assembles the pieces together for the kit. These companies use Garrett turbos. A better bet would be to contact Greddy, Apexi, HKS companies like that. Currently only Why industries retails a turbo kit for the yaris, ZPI is set to release their kit in a week or two.

  7. #32

    Default Which turbo Kit From where

    Hey guys I talked to Kenny at ZPI earlier today and he said they finally received all the piping for their turbo kits. They should be releasing them sometime within the next week or two. No word on pricing yet, but it should be competitive. As always if someone in the Philadelphia area wants to see the kit just pm me. Also too I will be at Carlisle with ZPI the first week in may for a car show up there. Stop by and see me my car will more then likely be in their booth.

  8. #33

    Default Which turbo Kit From where

    I saw since MicroImage has stopped his business both on ebay and through his normal sites, there is no easy way to find a Zage Turbo kit anymore. I did some digging and found one company willing to ship them, although the cost is up.....

    Shift Performance from OZ. There email is below after I got a

  9. #34

    Default Which turbo Kit From where

    This post was originally from the ELPrototypes website, and I was just wondering what ZPI Racing is going to do in order to get around the problems listed below.

    Turbo charging the 1nz-fe has proven to be chore. It responds to boost quite nicely with a properly sized turbo. But its downfalls are the internals and its engine management.
    Lets touch on the internals. First and foremost are the rods. Although quite strong for their size, they are designed for normal aspiration only. A half point higher in compression is about all they can handle daily without failure. Once boost is added to the equation, it becomes Russian roulette as to when they will let loose. You may last eight months with 50,000 miles or blow it the first pass down the street; there are no warning signs. We know this because of the testing of our turbo kit for the last year. The testing started on the Echo then was transferred to a Scion. The testing was controlled and only once was it taken past its set 7-psi mark while in our possession. Its one time high boost pass on the dyno was done to see how much the turbo would produce at maximum efficiency. Fueling and timing were changed to handle this. Every month the pan was dropped and there were no signs of abnormal rod bearing wear. The compression was straight across the board every time. The first motor lasted 6 months with about 35,000 miles. Its life was cut short while at the paint shop. Rumors placed it at the local street races near the paint shop, which they had for 3 weeks. All the baked on rubber in the fender well was the first clue. It let loose on its way back from them. A fresh motor was installed ASAP to continue the testing. The old motor was broke down to find the rod broke right above the crank pin. The dangling rod was beaten into the walls and punctured holes on both sides of the block. The second one let loose 12,467 miles later. It had seen one race with 3 passes at 9 psi. Fueling and timing were also changed to handle this. Other than that it was daily driven. The rods let go again, the same way, only this time it punctured the water jacket and destroyed the head. These engines have the crankshaft offset 12mm to the thrust side of the cylinder bore centerline. This reduces the side force generated at maximum compression, for reduced friction and improved fuel economy. Toyota calculates the offset crankshaft configuration reduces fuel consumption by between one and three percent. Unfortunately, this throws the angle of the rod way out on its upward travel causing the rod to just give up under boost and snap. If there is any detonation or pre-ignition this breakage will occur at an accelerated rate. The movement and breakage of the cylinder walls is the same as Hondas open deck. Although we have yet to split one, we designed a block guard just in case. This product keeps cylinders from moving around and from splitting open the top of the bore. We are currently designing a forged replacement rod as well as a rod piston combo for high boost applications. The first of the sleeved blocks is being tested now.
    Now for the ecu. It cannot handle boost in its stock form. Its timing is set for the stock parameters only. It will not handle larger injectors either. Piggyback or stand-alone management is needed to fuel the turbo properly, end of story.
    From what we have seen, these issues probably were found by the likes of Blitz and Greddy long before we did. Thats why the boost on their kits was so low. The stock injectors will supply enough fuel for 3 to 4 psi if the MAF reaches full voltage and gets the injectors to 85 percent duty. Unfortunately you end up with a 15:1 AFR at peak rpm this way. Good for passing emissions but bad for the motor. The RS turbo Vitz has an ecu calibrated for the larger injectors that feed 150 ps at the flywheel which in turn is 127 ps at the wheels. The blitz s/c was turning 122 hp to the wheels without an ecu for the US market. With the ecu JDM only, the s/c put down 129 ps to the wheels. It seems like the kits are limited to 150 at the flywheel but no one says how long it will last. Our turbo kit produced 144 hp and 150 tq to the wheels. Thats 170 hp at the flywheel. We have worked with several management systems and we will inform the public of the best one for our kit. We will release our kit soon but cannot warranty it except for workmanship. This kit will push your engine over the edge in the long run but if you build it our kit will be able to provide up to 250 hp at the flywheel. Thats 217 at the wheels. With all this said, it is up to you, the consumer, to decide whether this kit is right for you.

  10. #35

    Default Which turbo Kit From where

    Nice thread. Very detailed. Just wanted to mention if U get the header wrap wet if is much easier to install and U can wrap it tighter. Pics look so familar. I cant believe my turbo set up looks so much like the zage kit, considering I never saw it before. It looks like their manafold is a little shorter and may be a little roomier under the hood. But who knows about flow.
    Next question, Whos going for pistons and rods first? I think I will need a beefier clutch first though.

  11. #36

    Default Which turbo Kit From where

    where in the turbo routing did you mount the MAF?

    what size is the MAF housing?

    its possible youre maxing out the MAFs readings and you need to go to a larger diameter MAF housing and retune.

    or you could be having issues if its
    A. too close to the turbo inlet
    B. Blow thru after the turbo outlet
    C. bad maf

  12. #37

    Default -

    I have a question... where did you pull that 10,000 figure from? Ive seen a stage II kit from TCD that gives you 300whp at 14psi for 5100 and a full stainless exhaust from them for 700, but I have never seen anything close to a 10k turbo kit for an E30.

  13. #38

    Default -

    FREEZEEEEE....PUT THE TURBO KIT DOWN SLOWLY Stay away from SS Autochrome....chinese made copied shitty stuff with welds that crack at room temperature. If you ever buy something from them just buy the intercooler. Not that its that good but its the onlything that is half decent

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