B16a NOS or TURBO??

[Black-91-Si]

I have a 91 si with a b16a swap, its all stock as of now...Im not really sure which route to take...i want a FAST but reliable daily driver, which do you think is the best of both worlds???? if you have a rough idea of how much $ each setup will go for let me know... like all the work i would need for NOS and all the work i would need to turbo the car as well...Thanks

Peace

[igotasubie88]

turbo

[Enigma]

fuck nitrous.... go with turbo..

unless you like your throttle body valve to be shaped like a taco... like this



or if you want a huge fire ball coming out of your air filter, burning a nice ring around it like this..



Nitrous is in NO way reliable..

this happened to me last night because after i sprayed the nitrous solenoid stuck open when i let off the gas and it kept spraying nitrous.. then BOOM, then i had to get out and turn the bottle off

[Krazed]

nitrous is perfectly safe when you know what your doing. Its cheaper and you can turn it on and off when you want. Turbo is much more expensive and you cant shut it off. Nitrous is the wayto go for a DD.

[Enigma]

^ dude, the nitrous solenoid stuck open, i had no control over it.. that does not make it safe, and wouldn't matter if you know what your doing..
aslo now it heated up a spark plug, and the ceramic came off got stuck under a valve and broke it
/being pissed at nitrous

[Havocpsi]

For one nitrous is so cheap when you first get it but then you got to refill the bottle after a while you pay more than your average small turbo build. Turbo can be put on runs better and make power all the time. Dont waste your money do it right and go turbo

[notoriouspyro]

No questions asked... Forced induction. It is a million times safer and easier to control. Now keep in mind, the turbo setup is more expensive especially when you take into concideration the tuning aspect, but in the long run, unless you are spool happy you have a better chance of keeping your block in-tact and maintaining a "reliable" daily driver.

And yes... You can shut off a turbo... Well, not completely anyway, but you can lower the amount of airflow that is going into your engine. That's the point behind the wastegate.

I know it's an old thread but one favor... Please stop referring to Nitrous as "NOS". Just a personal pet peeve that Fast and the Furious started for me.

[addsmack]

TURBO! Just make sure you have a proper tune.

Nothing beats 10.5psi on stock internals. All about the tune.

[Krazed]

^ dude, the nitrous solenoid stuck open, i had no control over it.. that does not make it safe, and wouldn't matter if you know what your doing..
aslo now it heated up a spark plug, and the ceramic came off got stuck under a valve and broke it
/being pissed at nitrous

And just as easy a vacuum line could have a hole in it or come off of your wastegate and you could boost to the moon and blow your shit. There will always be the chance of mechanical failure no matter what you choose. A small shot of wet nitrous is way easier then a forced induction setup and way more bang for your buck.

and from now on, unless you have experience with both sides of advice being asked, please refrain from answering. There has been a ridiculous amount of less than knowledgeable advice in this forum lately and i am not happy with it.

[Discorex]

thread resurection here

Ive probably ran more nitrous through Hondas than anyone you know so I preach from experience. You dont have to agree just listen.

Nitrous in large quantities fed into a Honda can never be considered safe or relaible. In small shots it can be alot of fun and somewhat safe as long as the normal rules of thumb are followed. ie. never spray before 3k rpm, only spray at WOT (wide open throttle) and only spray for short bursts like at the drag strip.

I was on a mission for years to disprove all the nay sayers out there that like to hate on the NAWZZZZ! I had a goal to hurt as many boosted feelings as possible with my little nitrous'd powered b series. Well I did but it was at the expense of one innocent 1.8 liter 4 cylinder honda engine. I was running two stages of nitrous both controlled by Hondata s300 and many safety varriables. The forst stage was a 125 shot and the second stage was a 65 shot. On motor the Car made 170hp and on both stages it made 350hp. The first stage was a direct port shot and the second was a regular fogger in the intake. I had countless hours on our in house dyno perfecting my set up. My point im making is that I did everything I could to keep the spray safe and reliable. Well it all ended with one small miscalculation of my second (small) stage fuel pill and it was all over. BOOM game over. I quickly rebuilt the motor, recalculated the fuel and ran the set up for quite a while. I had alot of fun with the car but it was never what I considered fast. I had a goal of putting the car (an Integra) in the 7's in the 1/8 mile and never could get there due to unforseen issues. Issues like solonoids hanging open. Yeah that alot of fun.

So I got fed up with the roulette game I felt like I was always playing and boosted the car with literal Junk we had laying around the shop and an old beat up "60 trim" Innovative turbo and some 750cc RC injectors. Right outta the gate the car responded amazingly on the dyno to boost and the car made 372 hp. On my second trip back out to the drag strip the car ran a 7.84 and on the third trip out the car went 7.75.

That should help a little with your decision a little I hope. Good luck to anyone wanting to delve into either methods of go fast.

[ImportCarPartsPlus]

Build the motor and do both.

[tricura]

Build the motor and do both.

agree

[Joseph Davis]

Do either to something other than a B16. If you want a dinky 1.6 liter get a D16 and you'll get a lot more for your money. If you want B-series, uhm, skip the B16 as they are largely worthless and go right for an LS or GSR/ITR. B16 have poor head gasket seal, they love to break sleeves as badly as B18A1 or B20B/Z, overrated engines.

[Makako]

do both...

get a WET 50 shot for 250 used.

get it jetted correctly.

buy a ebay turbo kit for 650-800 bux. which is stupoid cheap.

put some ARP head studs in. those are 130-150.

metal OEM honda head gasket, for the vtec motors.70-80

and all you gotta worry about is proper tuning..

i' ve seen plenty of boosted cars run for over 10 years as reliable as any vehicle out ther.
proper tuning yields proper results. and the money is worth every penny.

everyday we see daily driven 500+ hp cars on boost and they drive perfect.

I myself had a 500.000 mile motor single cam in an AE86 on bost for the past 7 years. still reliable.

so get an emanage or p28 ecu and chrome it out! use Chrome engine management to control it.

[gsrhatch14]

hey guys i have a question i have a stock gsr not jdm (if that makes a difference) i wanna turbo it whats the most i can boost and still be safe i wanna drive it to california from oregon (17 hour drive) but i dont wanna blow it i want it for a daily driver please tell me what would a nice set up would be for me too thanx!! you can private messege me

[gsrhatch14]

also im new here i dont know how to post a question like this b16 guy please tell me how to do it thanks lol

[7thgenV6coupe]

you have to have a certain number of posts before you can post a new thread

[Kamtror]

interesting idea. i know it would work on Olds, Ford, Mopar because the pump arm makes direct contact with the cam and that part of the block is basically open. Chevy, on the other hand, has a rod that pushes on the pump but i dont know if there would be enough of a drainback there. need a Chevy guy to answer this .